दरवळणारे सुगंध

गरम-गरम, आलं घातलेला, वाफाळलेला चहा...एका झटक्यात सकाळ सुवासिक बनून जाते. अशा चहाचा गंध घेऊन ज्याला चहा प्यायचा मोह होत नसेल, तो माणूसच काय!

प्रत्येक सकाळ ही एक नवीन सुगंध घेऊन येते. कधी पावसाची चाहूल, कधी थंडीची ऊब, तर कधी उन्हाचा तडाखा. प्रत्येक दिवसाचा जसा रंग न्यारा, तसाच सुगंधही. दिवस कसा असेल हे प्रत्येक सकाळच्या सुवासावरून कळते.

चैत्र महिन्यात वसंताची चाहूल लागते. सकाळी उठून एक उल्हासित सुगंध दरवळत असतो. जणू सांगत असतो की झाडांना नवी पालवी फुटणार आहे. नवीन आशा, नवीन स्वप्ने, नवीन आकांक्षा. सारं काही नवीन. निरभ्र आभाळाखाली एक दीर्घ श्वास घेऊन सभोवतालचा आनंद आपल्यात सामावून घ्यावा आणि मगच दिवसाची सुरवात करावी.

जशी उन्हाची तीव्रता वाढते, तसाच सुगंधही बदलतो. एक तीक्ष्ण असा सुवास येणाऱ्या तप्त दिवसाची चाहूल देऊन जातो. उष्णता त्या एका सुगंधात लपली असते. हा सुवास जेव्हढा उष्ण, तेव्हढाच कोरडा. सूर्य आता तापला आहे आणि आता कोणाची खैर नाही असा प्रेमळ इशारा असतो.

पण याच दिवसात एक अजून अलौकिक सुगंध घराघरांत दरवळत असतो. एका टोकरी मध्ये बंद करून ठेवलेल्या त्या फळांचा सुवास घरा-दारात भरून राहिला असतो. उगाच नाही त्याला फळांचा राजा म्हणत. खरा तर आंब्याच्या सीझनला असा एक दंडकच केला पाहिजे की  सर्वांनी उठल्यावर प्रथम आम्रसुगंध घ्यावा, आम्र-फळास वंदन करावे, आणि मगच दिनचर्येस सुरवात करावी. तसे न केल्यास आजन्म आंब्यांना मुकावे ही शिक्षा.

जसा आंब्याचा सीझन संपत येतो तसा येणाऱ्या वर्ष ऋतूची चाहूल देऊन जातो. "आज भयंकर उकडतंय, नाही?" "पाऊस येणार वाटतं!" "पाऊस येउदे एकदाचा, खूप झाला उन्हाळा!" असल्या उद्गारानीच आपण पावसाळ्यास सज्ज होतो.

सकाळपासूनच हवेत आर्द्रता जाणवत असते. मेघगर्जनेसह वळवाचा पाऊस हजेरी नक्की लावणार असे वाटत राहते. सकाळच्या दमट सुगंधाने शुष्क झालेल्या मनाने उभारी घेतलेली असते. पण नेहेमीसारखाच पाऊस हुलकावणी देऊन जातो.

कधीतरी रात्री धुमाकूळ पाऊस पडून जातो. सकाळचा पहिला श्वास तुम्हाला रात्रीची कथा सांगून जातो. वातावरणात, वळवाच्या पाऊसाने केलेला पहिला स्पर्श अजूनही तरळत असतो सकाळच्या धुंध वासात.

वर्षा ऋतूच्या विलक्षण सौंदर्यात धरती न्हाऊन गेलेली असते. दररोज सकाळी अधिकाधिक बहरत जाणारी झाडं, फुलं, पानं, सगळंच  विलोभनीय असतं. याच दिवसात पारिजातकाचा वेड लावणारा सुगंध तुमची सकाळ मोहवतो. रातोरात खुलणारी रातराणी, जाई-जुई, सायली, आणि मोगरा, या फुलांनी तर सर्व आसमंत भरून जातो.

सकाळ-सकाळी फुलांनी लगडलेल्या पारिजातकाच्या झाडाखालून कधी गेला आहात? किंवा, झाडाखाली कोणी हिऱ्यांचा सडा टाकला आहे, असे भासवणाऱ्या फुलांना वेचायला कधी गेला आहात का? फुलांचा सुगंध तर अप्रतिम असतोच. पण झाडाखाली पडलेली फुले वेचतावेचता, जेव्हा झाडावरून पडणारी फुले कधी आपल्या पायाशी, तर कधी आपसूक परडीत येऊन पडतात, तेव्हा काय अप्रूप वाटते! आणि नुसतीच फुले नाहीत, तर त्याबरोबर पानांवरून गळणारे टपोरे थेंब, कधी हातावर, तर कधी पाठीवर पडतात, आणि अंगावरून एक सुर्रकन शिरशिरी जाते.

पारिजातकाची फुले हातात घेऊन बघा, आणि त्यांचा सुगंध मनात साठवा. ओंजळ रिकामी केलीत, तरी सुगंध तसाच टवटवीत आणि मोहून टाकणारा येईल तुमच्या हातांना.

पावसाच्या सुरवातीस अजून एका प्रकारच्या वासाची खासियत आहे. सगळ्यांनाच हा वास आवडेल असे काही नाही. पण आहे मात्र या सीझनचे खास वैशिष्ट्य! छत्री आणि रेनकोट यांचे वास. वर्षभराने काढलेले छत्री आणि रेनकोट यांना नेहेमीच एक वेगळा, खास पावसाळी वास येतो. या वासाने मला कायम बेडकाची आठवण होते.

या दिवसात आपल्याला अजून एका वासाची सवय होते, किंबहुना सवय करून घ्यावी लागते. ओल्या, दमट कपड्यांचे वास. आपण कितीही प्रयत्न केला, पूर्ण झाकणारा रेनकोट-टोपी हे सोपस्कार केले, तरीही कपडे ओले होतातच, आणि लवकर वाळत पण नाहीत. आज पाउस येणार नाही, या विश्वासाने आपण बाहेर पडलो की पाउस हमखास आपल्याला फसवणार. मग ओलं होवून घरी येण्याशिवाय गत्यंतर नसतो. शिवाय रस्त्याने जाणाऱ्या वाहनांना तुमचा कोरडेपणा रुचत नाही. ते पावसाची कमी पुरी करतात. एकुणात कपडे ओले राहून दमट वासाची सवय होते.

असे भिजून आल्यावर कांदाभजीचा वास खुणावतो, आणि "खाण्यासाठी जगावे" ते पटते. गरम-गरम भाजीचा वास का एकदा नाकात गेला की मग ना पावसाचे भान, ना ओल्या कपड्यांचे.

श्रावण येतो आणि खाण्याची रेलचेल सुरु होते. नुसतीच सुवासित फुले नव्हे, तर खरपूस, खमंग, जीभेचे चोचले पुरवणारे, एक-से-एक, पदार्थ आपल्या खाद्य संस्कृतीत आहेत.

दर श्रावणी शुक्रवारी एक वेगळा पदार्थ. जीवती देवीच्या व्रतामुळे दर शुक्रवारी वेगवेगळे पदार्थ बनवले जातात. एका शुक्रवारी पुरणपोळीचा घमघमाट असतो. खीर, घावन, आरत्या, चवाचे कानवले या सगळ्यांचा एका पाठोपाठ क्रमांक लागतो. दर शुक्रवारी कामावरून घरी शिरल्या-शिरल्या असा काही मस्त वास येतो की ते वाण-बीण बाजूला राहिलं, लागलीच पानावर बसावे.

हे झालं शुक्रवारचे. पण श्रावणात तर प्रत्येक दिवसच साजरा करण्यासारखा असतो. घराबाहेर पावसाने चिंब झालेल्या मातीचा सुवास, तर घरात वेगवेगळ्या रुचकर पदार्थांचा. नागपंचमीला फळे, शिळसप्तमीला सांजा, पौर्णिमेला नारळी भात असले स्वादिष्ठ  पदार्थ. 

नागपंचमी ला मेंदीचा धुंध सुगंध. ओल्या मेंदीचा, हातावर सुकलेल्या मेंदीचा, आणि रंगलेल्या मेंदीचा सुगंध वेगवेगळा येतो. जितकी मेंदी रंगते तितकी मज्जा वाटते. पण जशी फिकी पडते तसं वाईट वाटतं. नक्षीदार मेंदीने सजलेले हात जेव्हा पूर्ववत बेरंग होतात, तेव्हा वाईट वाटते. पण आश्चर्य म्हणजे त्या पांढऱ्या हातांनापण अजून एक अती सूक्ष्म सुवास येत असतो!

खमंग, सुरमट, साजुक तुपातला नारळी भात घेऊन नारळी पौर्णिमा येते. पाठोपाठ येते जन्माष्टमी. दूध-पोहे आणि दही-पोहे इतका सोप्पा आणि टेस्टी नैवेद्य घेऊन!

मग वाट पाहतो आपण गणपतीच्या दिवसांची. धूप-दीप, अगरबत्ती, फळे, केवड्याची पाने, कमळाची फुले, लाल जास्वंदीची फुले, दुर्वा, पेढे, खोबरं-साखर, साखरफुटाणे, खारीक-खोबरं, सर्व गोष्टींचे मिसळण होवून एक अनामिक मंगलमय वातावरण तयार होते, बेहद्द आल्हादायक!

गौऱ्या घरी आल्या की आनंदाला उधाण येते. चिवडा-लाडू, करंज्या, अनारसे बनवले जातात आणि स्वागताची जय्यत तयारी होते. खीर-घावन, वरण-पुरण, वालाचे बिरडे, बटाट्याची भाजी, पुऱ्या, श्रीखंड, लोणचे, पापड, अगदी लिंबूच्या फोडीचा वास देखील पोटातल्या अग्नीला आहुती वाहतो.

विसर्जनाच्या दिवशी घाटावर जाऊन नुसते उभे राहिले तरी भरपूर फायदा होतो. घराघरातल्या विसर्जित होणाऱ्या गणरायांचे दर्शन होते. शेवटच्या कर्पुरारतीच्या सुवासाने आसमंत भरून गेलेले असते. आरत्या आणि "पुढल्या वर्षी लवकर या" या घोषात उत्साह शिगेला पोचतो. या सगळ्या उत्सवाचा आनंद तर घेता येतोच, पण त्या शिवाय अजून एक मोठा फायदा म्हणजे वाटल्या डाळीचा प्रसाद मिळतो. त्याकरिता तुम्ही घरातलेच असायला पाहिजेत असा काही नाही हां! येण्या-जाणाऱ्या सगळ्यांना मिळतो हा प्रसाद. कधी सुकी डाळ तर कधी ओली. पण त्याशिवाय गणरायाला निरोप कसा द्यायचा?

गणेश विसर्जना नंतरचे दोन आठवडे म्हणजे आपल्या पूर्वजांना प्रसाद देण्यासाठीचे दिवस. आपापल्या पितरांना श्रद्धांजली वाहिली जाते ती घरोघरी. हा काही सार्वजनिक सण नाही. तरीदेखील जेव्हा घरी "तीथ" असते, तेव्हा गोड वडे, तिखट वडे - खीर, आमसुलाची चटणी. गवार-भोपळ्याची, कारल्याची, भेंडीची भाजी, कढी हे सर्व पदार्थ केले जातात. मला तिखट वडा - खीर हे combination कमालीचे आवडते, अगदी कायम पण खाऊ शकते.

पितृपंधरवडा संपतो न संपतो तोच नवरात्र सुरु. नवरात्र म्हटला की मला आठवतं आमच्या घरी बाबा धूप लावतात दररोज संध्याकाळी तेच. आमच्या आईकडे देव बसवतात. सकाळ-संध्याकाळ पूजा आणि आरती. संध्याकाळच्या आरतीच्या वेळची घंटा आणि धुपाचा सुगंध मन एकदम प्रसन्न करून टाकतात.

घरी सवाष्णी घालतात त्या दिवशी चंदनाचा सुगंध येत असतो. चुलीवर मसाला दूध उकळत असते. एका बाजूस सर्व सवाष्णीना द्यायला घरचे विडे बनवले जात असतात. अश्या वेळेस मसाला दूध आधी घ्यावे की पान खावे हेच कळत नाही.

दसऱ्याच्या दिवशी पुरी-श्रीखंड हा बेत ठरलेला. श्रीखंडामध्ये भरपूर जायफळ घालायचे...नुसत्या वासानेच दुपारची वामकुक्षीची guarantee. दसऱ्याला आपट्याची पाने सोनं म्हणून सकाळी पुजायला ठेवतो तेव्हाचा त्यांचा वास आणि संध्याकाळच्या पानांचा वास वेगवेगळा असतो. संध्याकाळची पाने थकलेली, उदास वाटतात. पटकन कुस्करली जातात. कुस्करलेल्या पानांना पण वेगळा वास येतो.

दसरा संपतो आणि दिवाळीचे वेध लागतात. पावसाळा संपून हिवाळ्याकडे वाटचाल सुरु झालेली असते. पण म्हणून काही रविराजाला विसरता येत नाही. दिवसभर चांगलाच तापतो आणि तापवतो. पण संध्याकाळी गारवा पसरतो. दिवसा पानगळतीचा वास खूपच मस्त वाटतो.

आणि एक दिवस गल्ली-बोळातून जाताना बेसन भाजल्याचा घमघमाट येतो, आणि लक्षात येते की आली दिवाळी चार दिवसांवर. रस्त्या-रस्त्यांवर आकाशकंदील दिसायला लागतात. कुठे चकली, कुठे शेव, चिवडा, लाडू, शंकरपाळ्या, अनारसे, ह्या सगळ्या फराळामुळे दिवाळीची वाट आपण उत्सुकतेने बघायला लागतो. नवीन कपडे घेतले जातात. तुम्हाला आवडतो का नवीन कपड्यांचा वास? मला खूप आवडतो. दसरा - दिवाळी निमित्त घेतलेल्या नवीन कारच्या interior चा वास पण आवडतो.

आम्ही लहानपणी मौज म्हणून दिवाळीला "मोती चंदन" साबण आणायचो. दिवाळीच्या दिवशी पहाटे-पहाटे नवीन चंदन साबणाचा सुगंध, घराबाहेरून फटाक्यांचा वास, आणि सकाळचा थंडीचा वेगळाच सुगंध ह्याचे एक विलक्षण मिश्रण तयार व्हायचे.

भरपूर आनंद देऊन दिवाळी संपते आणि मग कडाक्याच्या थंडीचा मौसम सुरु होतो. भर थंडीत, अगदी दुपारीपण गोधडी घेऊन झोपावे, असे मस्त वातावरण होते. तेव्हा दुपारी उन्हात गेले की थंडीचा वास दरवळत असतो. याच दिवसांमध्ये दुपारच्या चारच्या वाफाळलेल्या चहाचे महत्व कळते.

जानेवारीमध्ये संक्रांत येते गुळपोळी घेऊनच. गरम-गरम गुळपोळी, त्यावर चमचाभर साजूक तूप, आणि चवीला बटाट्याची भाजी. ह्या combination ला तोडच नाही.

मग येतो वर्षातला शेवटचा सन, होळी! रंग, फुगे, पाणी, संध्याकाळची होळी, अन अर्थात पुरणपोळी. प्रत्येक सणाची काय वेगळी मजा असते ना! संध्याकाळच्या पेटलेल्या होळीने सर्वत्र गर्मी पसरते. येणाऱ्या वसंत ऋतूची चाहूल अलगद देऊन जाते.

वर्षभर वेगवेगळे सुगंध घेऊन आलेले ऋतुचक्र पुनश्च सुरु होते. गतवर्षीच्या विविध सुवासाची पुंजी घेऊन नवीन वर्षात आपणही जायला सज्ज होतो!

Behind The Wall

My office is very close to the jail. The office canteen overlooks a wide patch of land where all women convicts toil hard in the day. As the days have passed, the brown, coarse patch has turned into a green, lively field.

Everyday is a new day to observe these women in the field. When we moved to this new facility, it was a novel place for us all. We were overjoyed to see the vast fields before us and the open skies. We moved in the winter months and were glad to sit in the weak, winter sun and get some sun-bath. The early morning ritual of a hot cup of chai in the sun to warm ourselves was coupled with the gazing and observing of the fields before us.

As winter gave way to summer, the oppressive heat became unbearable. We tried to avoid the open canteen and remain inside in the air conditioning. Even as we had to go to the canteen for our lunch, we grumbled about the brutal heat waves that made it impossible to sit there. Only as the afternoon waned, we stepped into the canteen for a cup of evening chai.

Rains have come very late this season. Long, dry summer was very adamant and troubled everyone with its dry winds and insufferable heat. Finally as the rains have arrived, a fresh breath of life has been given to all. Everyone has also given a sigh of relief that the water situation for the entire city will improve.

During all this time, with the changing landscape, the fields and the workers have been constant. In the harsh summer afternoon, we could see them under the trees. All ladies in green saris toiling hard in the heat. As monsoon approached, they started tilling the fields and then waiting for rains. Two months into the rainy season, their fields have blossomed into green vegetables, and other produce that they will sell.

Every day, for me it is a kind of a routine to look out at the fields and see the convicts working. Sometimes, it is hard to believe that all those ladies working in those fields are convicts. The tremendous efforts that they put into their work is a truly extraordinary.

Perhaps some of them could have been convicted for petty crimes, some might have done gruesome crimes, while a few could also have been convicted wrongly. But they all have the same routine now, same lifestyle. A few could have been from rich families, while others from poor families. But in the world behind that big wall, they just are all the same. Neither poor, nor rich; neither educated, nor coarse, just plain criminals who are all on an equal level.

Or so it seems! Inside the walls, what happens one wouldn't know. There would be a hierarchy even among the hardest of the criminals. They might perhaps still be bullying some weaklings in the group. Perhaps only before the wardens they behave themselves while without a watchful eye, they go back to being the ruffians that they are thought to be.

Each one of them would have a story to tell. Of why and how they landed up in the jail. How they have their families behind them, how their kids might be surviving without them. It must be difficult for them to be without their kids and families.

I always wonder what each one of them must be thinking of when they are serving their sentences. Do they feel ashamed of what they did? Do they feel good that they did what was right? Do they feel stuck in that little world behind the big wall? Some of them could be waiting for the end of their sentences so that they go out and lead a better life. They have perhaps learnt from their mistakes and during their time in the prison, they have come to understand what life really is.

All in all, for me it is an everyday experience of seeing the ladies toiling in the fields and doing something that not all could boast of in an urban landscape. But then, they also have done something that not all would normally do.

Harihareshwar

Harihareshwar is located on the western coast in the Raigad district of Maharashtra. It is known for the Shiva temple known as Hareshwar. That's why the name: Harihareshwar.

Harihareshwar lies about 220 kms from Pune. There are multiple ways to reach Harihareshwar. The one we took was probably the longest route.

Routes to Harihareshwar

1. Via Tamhini ghat

Map

This is the commonest and probably shortest route to go to the Kokan area from Pune. From Chandani Chowk, take the road towards Paud, Mulshi, and follow it up to the Tamhini ghat. After crossing the ghat, you have to join the National Highway 17, the Mumbai-Goa Road at Kolad.

2. Via Khopoli-Pali Road
From Pune, you take the Mumbai Expressway. Take the Khopoli exit. From Khopoli, take the Khopoli-Pali road. I don't know much about this route. We did not take this route. With this route, you get out on the NH 17 somewhere near Kolad.

3. Via Khopoli-Pen Road
From Pune, you take the Mumbai Expressway. Take the Khalapur exit (go past the Khopoli exit), and take the Khalapur-Pen road. This is a beautiful drive, though a bit lonely. It's a stretch of 25 kms and takes approximately half an hour. There aren't any shops or garages on this road. So, make sure you have an extra tyre with you, and also get to know how to change a punctured tyre, just in case. This route goes directly in the Pen city right through the market. Cross the town and join the Pen-Alibaug road at the other end of the town. After around 5 kms, take a left at the Wadkhal naka. That's where you join NH 17.

Eventually, all roads lead to NH 17. :)

On NH 17, you will pass all small and large villages and towns. The important towns on the way are Nagothane, Kolad, Indapur, and Mangaon.

To go to Harihareshwar, you must take a right at Mangaon. Just after crossing the ST stand on the right hand, a small road is seen on the right. It can easily be missed, so keep a watch on it. Interestingly, the road points to only Morba, the next village on that route. But that really is the turn that you need to take to go to Diveagar, Harihareshwar, and further down south.

From the Morba road, you must cross the Morba-Sai ghat. After Sai (a village), comes Mhasla. At Mhasla, there are two ways to reach Harihareshwar. One is a direct route to Harihareshwar through several ghats. The other route is via Diveagar and Srivardhan.

We took the direct route to Harihareshwar. This route is a bit lonely. I would recommend taking the other route via Diveagar and Srivardhan. Not only is it scenic, but also easier to drive and not very lonely. The distance is also lesser. Or may be the scenic road makes it seem lesser.

Staying at Harihareshwar

Tents at Harihareshwar MTDC Resort

We stayed at the MTDC beach resort. It is good, clean, and peaceful. In fact, it has it's own beach, though small. You can go for boating at the MTDC resort. The rates are around 1500-2500 per night based on the type of room you choose.

We stayed in the special room and then upgraded to a tent for a day. If you plan to stay at the MTDC resort, go for the tent. The experience is amazing. All the tents are situated amidst tall trees and have a view of the open sea. It's beautiful to get up in the morning to the view of the vast sea in front of you. Also, at night, it becomes a bit creepy to feel all alone in the tent and the quietness around. You might hear a bird perching on the roof top of the tent and get the jitters. It's great fun.

Other than MTDC, there is also a good resort very near the Harihareshwar temple called the Hari-Hareshwar Beach Resort. This too is priced at around the same price. The tents are bigger here and it's very close to the beach.

Where to eat at Harihareshwar?

There are several places where you can get decent food in Harihareshwar. One such place is Prachiti Bhojanalay. It is very close to the temple and you get only vegetarian food there. Priced at Rs. 50/- per thali, you get unlimited food here. Just opposite Prachiti is the Hari-Hareshwar Beach Resort that also offers veg and non-veg thalis. Priced at Rs. 120/- and above for non-veg thalis, it's bit costly. However the food is good.

The MTDC resort has its own restaurant called The Grasshopper Inn. Don't know why it has such a weird name. We thought it was exorbitantly priced and the food was also only just okay, average.

On the way to MTDC is another small khanaval (forgot the name) that serves vegetarian food for Rs. 70/- per thali. Even this is affordable and pretty good food.

A few meters ahead, there is a turning at which are several tapris that serve wada-paav, bhaji, bhurji. At that junction, there's a nice joint aptly called Turning Point that serves batate wade, anda bhurji, kanda bhaji, chai. It's really nice and a good breakfast stop.

Apart from these, there are many places where you can tell in advance if you want to have food there. These are mostly arranged at the homes of the locals there, who serve home-made food.

Harihareshwar Beach

MTDC beach at low tide

This is one thing that you need to be damn careful about. The beach at Harihareshwar is not good for swimming and fun and frolicking. It is full of rocks that go under water when it is high tide. If your first look at the Harihareshwar beach is at the time of high tide, you might be misled thinking that the beach is pretty good and safe. But it really is not. The sand at the beach is quicksand and pulls you inside. The rocks are dangerous, jutting out in the open. In fact, at the beach near the temple, there is a low-lying area which is covered by 5-8 feet of water during high tide. Boats are anchored there when high tide. So, you can imagine how deep it becomes.

MTDC beach at high tide

Even at the MTDC beach, at the boating area, there is small stretch of beach that is covered with water at high tide. If you are at this beach at the time of high tide, you can experience for yourself how the water rises slowly and covers all the rocks. Be really careful with the rocks. They have sharp edges that easily cut your feet if you step on them by mistake.

So in all, I would advice that the Harihareshwar beach is best to be seen from far and enjoyed. Don't venture too much in the waters. If you want to enjoy the beach, Diveagar is the place for you.

Harihareshwar Temple

Going down to the sea on the Pradakshina Marg

The Shiva temple is famous for its Pradakshina. It takes around 30 mins to complete the Pradakshina. The temple itself is also beautiful just like other Shiva temples. What makes it unique is that it is situated right at the sea, and has a Pradakshina that actually is a complete one unlike the one we usually take in a Shiva temple. Inside the temple, you can take the half Pradakshina. Outside, the Pradakshina is a full one involving climbing up the mountain and then climbing down and walking along the sea-cut rocks. It's actually spooky.

When you reach the top, you get to see a notice that warns that the sea near the Pradakshina Marg is dangerous, you should take care not to venture near the lashing waves during high tide, and that you should first get information about the high and low tide timings. You might feel like overlooking the notice (feeling you are at the top of the mountain, and there's no sea there.) But you are mistaken. As soon as you turn left, you will see the deep gorge that you need to climb down that goes directly to the sea. And you certainly are frightened.

Pradakshina Marg

As you climb down, you can see yourself literally climbing down into the sea. There is a small pathway carved in the rocks that's the Pradakshina Marg. On the rocks you can feel the power of the sea. You are at the mercy of the Elements and know in your heart that you are a mere midget in the vastness of this universe. The wet rocks are a proof of how far the waves come in. And you thank yourself that it's low tide at the moment.

So, if you want to do the Pradakshina, make sure it is low tide. Don't leave the hands of your kids as you complete the Pradakshina.

Tips for Visiting Harihareshwar

• If you are visiting Harihareshwar directly, take the route that comes via Diveagar. It's more enjoyable.
• Keep a watch on the high and low tide timings. If you have internet on your smartphones, all the better. We used this site to check the timings: http://wap.swellwatch.com/tideStation.php?dataPoint=5890&region=1456&regionName=Arabian+Sea&trace=region:1092:The%20World%7Cregion:1647:Indian%20Ocean%7Cregion:1456:Arabian%20Sea. After the high tide time shown on this site, we observed that bigger and more powerful waves kept on coming to the shore for the next hour or so. So, to start with, this is a good site. But you would want to consult other resources too as well as consult the locals about the tide timings (In Marathi, high tide is called bharti and low tide is called ohoti.) Moreover, the site shows the timings of the Arabian Sea. The timings at individual beaches may differ based on the water level and coastline. So, do consult other resources for accurate information.
• Keep first aid, sunscreen lotion, caps, old newspapers handy. All these are useful at times.
• Keep a torch handy as night falls. The electricity at Harihareshwar cannot be relied on.
• One and a half day is more than enough for Harihareshwar. To enjoy the beach, proceed to Diveagar.

Have fun!

Bird In The Car

Today, there were feathers all over in my car. There was fluttering of feathers and frantic attempts to escape. And how it all started, we have absolutely no idea.

It was actually a bird that got into the car as we drove. We were on the highway, going to office. Suddenly, I heard some noise in the rear just like a plastic bag makes when it flutters in the wind. And then, there were feathers all over. My first thought was that some chicken feathers had got in from the tempo that carries chickens and hens.

But then I saw in the rear mirror and and was amazed to see a red-vented bulbul trying to escape through the closed windows. I stopped the car. Sanjeev got down and opened the boot and the left rear door. The poor birdie had panicked and was sitting near the left rear door. Sanjeev shooed it off and it took flight out of the door, glad to be ridden of the closed cage.

We were laughing for so long at the amazing and rare incident. The only way the little bird could have got in was through my open window. It probably wanted to fly across the road before my car passed. But with its mistaken timing and the speed of my car, it zoomed into my car instead of across. Poor soul! What fearful moments it must have had before it could escape! But, it could escape and be free! 

I can only say this: पक्ष्यांचे पण अंदाज चुकू शकतात!

Crappy Day With A Wet End

Started my day today with a fight. Went to office in a rage. Got late. Was stuck in traffic. Got late. Attended a stupid presentation. Did some work. Was irritated the whole day for unnecessary reasons. Got irritated with a colleague and did not even apologise. Started back from work. Found car was not working. Took rickshaw. Reached destination. Heavy downpour had started. Travelled back to office in the rains. Car still not working. Waited at office for some time for rains to stop. They didn't (of course!) Took a rickshaw till the bus stop. No bus was stopping at the right place. Had to walk to get a bus. Finally got the bus. Got down and walked back home.

End result: Dead tired and feeling all the more crappy!

That's life!

Eagerly Awaited

The eagerly-awaited, ever-soothing, greenery-giving, splashy, beautiful, life-giving, romantic rains are here. Out with your raincoats, umbrellas and all your wet gear.

I can't wait for the weekend!

I love rains!

Nights 20 Kms Apart

It's night time and I just peeked out of our window. It's calm and quiet outside. Not everyday do I find it like this here.

Nights at Shaniwar Peth are so different than the nights at Nigdi, in all aspects.

At Shaniwar Peth, I always experience some things that are totally absent here. Being in the rear wing of a building really does a make a huge difference. It's calmer, more sooothing there. Only occassionally will you hear a car zoom past on the road with a loud, blaring horn. Sometimes you'll hear an ambulance or police van siren and you wonder who's ill or who's being chased. If you are lucky, on a silent winter night, you'll hear the chugging of a train and enjoy the rhythmic passage of the carrier-on-wheels.

There's a cowshed just below my house and you can't miss the bells tinkling in the necks of the cows. Whenever I hear that, I imagine those cows chewing their cud, nodding away silently. It's funny how I then remember the chapter from my second or third standard science book about how and why cows chew cud, and the four parts of their stomach (can't remember now what those are, though.) Science as a subject has given me quite a few nightmares. But it also provides some lighter moments.

As I write, I can visualise the Shaniwar Peth square with all its happenings. There must be a few young men from the Mutheshwar Mandal chatting round the corner. Night walkers, people who like their night walk before they go off to bed, would be taking their night strolls. A lone dog-walker would be making his dog move over, while the dog adamantly keeps on sniffing at a car and refuses to budge.

In Nigdi, I have rearely come across dog-walkers. But night walkers, there are a-plenty. You will also find a bunch of youngsters gathered for their nightly gupshup.

The one difference here is that my home is directly on the road, which is a huge disadvantage, at least at night. All sorts of vehicles go past making a big noise, magnified by the silence of the night. Trucks, lorries, cars, bikers with their hideous horns, all go past. It's not that there's a continuous flow. But that one truck is more than enough to wake you up from your slumber.

Nothwithstanding this minor disturbance, I can enjoy the coolness of the night when I go up to the terrace. And if it's a full-moon, the beauty of the night is incomparable.

If you go up on the terrace and look around, you'll see all bungalows around you, interspersed with trees, swaying gently in the night breeze. Some of the households would still have a light or two on and you wonder what's happenening there so late at night. Suddenly a light is switched off somewhere reminding you of the lateness of the hour.

The Modern High School behind my house looms large at night. Standing dark and quiet in the night, it's hard to imagine that in another ten hours, it will be overflowing with chattering children livening up the building.

As is always the case, it's taken time for me to adjust to my new environment. But it is my new home now.

And when I miss being in Shaniwar Peth, I recall that there is at least one similarity between the two places: invisible dogs barking their heads off as if the world's about to end. And I feel at home again!

Falling Leaves

Have you seen them? Lazily falling to the ground, swinging gaily in the wind, and falling with a hush.

I love the seasons that have these falling leaves: autumn and just before spring. In autumn, there is a beautiful tinge to the air, anticipating the winter months. It reminds me of cold, foggy mornings, with the feeble winter sun striving to peep through the still-remaining leaves, trying to warm you up. Somehow it also reminds me of me cycling early in the morning, sweating all over, and feeling the wonderful biting wind on my cheeks.

Before spring, the falling leaves bring with them a hope of the upcoming spring and summer. But it also brings the warning that it's going to be hotter by the day. When I see these leaves falling, I always wonder the change in the temperatures that we always experience. It's pretty amazing that one day in an year we have a temperature of 6 degrees Celsius, while another day in an year after a gap of six months, we have a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius. What a difference!

These falling leaves really leave me nostalgic. They remind me of होळी, गुळपोळ्या, शेकोटी, mangoes, hot coffee, and carom competitions at home when we were kids during summer holidays. And then they make me remind of the amazing power of nature!

What beauty is to be found even in these dying leaves! Can we ever surpass nature in terms of beauty? I think not!

Scampering Around

Day: Saturday
Time: 7.30 a.m.
Place: Parvati top

After steeling ourselves to climb Parvati, my sister and I finally made it to the top. This was after at least 7 years of total absence of Parvati-climbing practise. It was so tiring. We did not climb at one go. We stopped every few steps to catch our breath. But eventually me made it. It felt glorious. It felt awesome to feel our red faces, hot with the exercise. As we sat down to rest, we saw the regular Parvati-climbing members sitting and enjoying their morning chat. We saw enthusiasts climbing Parvati multiple times. We were in awe of those who had climbed several times and left to scorn at ourselves for being so tired even after a single climb.

In spite of the lack of exercise and practise, it was a fun. It was fun to be there at that moment, feeling the fresh morning air. It was great to be on our own, without my little nephew firing away his "How-What-Who-Which-When-Why" questions. It was good to be together just as two sisters and enjoy the time with each other.

Then we went to sit behind the main temple. It was wonderful there. A calm, cool breeze was blowing. A few drops of rain here and there, and it really felt like being in Alice in Wonderland. The regulars on Parvati were on their way to the Parvati mandir and we were just sitting there in the cool breeze.

A little girl with her father were on their way back. Their camaraderie was a wonderful thing to see. Both were happy with each other. And suddenly, in a light moment, the father scampered with his little daughter just as she did, as if they were coming out of their last day at school before summer vacations. It was such a cute sight. Not only did the little girl enjoy, but I suspect that the father enjoyed this childishness more than anything else.

It's so much fun to be kids once more.

Replaying the kid and her dad in our mind, we remembered that there was another kid-Anay, waiting for us at my sister's place. We scampered down Parvati and went home with a mental promise of returning the next weekend again.

Rains...I'm Loving It!

It's raining hard! The rains slash, the clouds are ringing with thunders sending out flashes of lightenings, and the pitter-patter of rain drops is a music onto itself.

There's a serenity that quietens one and all.

I am ready to endure those four months of intense heat for these beautiful, peace-bringing, happy monsoon days.

Cheers To My Chariot!

She completed 1 year on May 26. My 2010 has given me immense pleasure on crowded Pune roads and in long distance travel. She has protected me from the sun, the traffic, and the hazards of two-wheeler driving. I owe her one!

Her elegant colour and shape add to her other advantages: smooth drive, powerful AC, comfortable interiors. I have spent some of my memorable times with her and my friends, enjoying her ownership and taking pride in guiding her.

Driving through rains and listening to my favourite songs: that's what I love to do with her. I remember how I had been to Lonavla with friends, had opened the boot, and had ice cream sitting in the boot watching the beautiful rains. It was awesome. I remember my first long drive to Mumbai with her. I remember how one night I had pizza with Mukta and Aditya in Bavdhan, enjoying the night stillness around.

I also remember how she has got all the different scratches and dents. I am so sorry dear! A big hug to you from me for that.

My heartfelt thanks to my Chariot, my Estilo, who has run for more than 8800 kms in this year and has allowed me to control her and bend her to my wishes on all roads! Love you Lady!

I Love...

...the smell of first rains.

...freshly made beds, especially if someone else has made them for me.

...to look at my closet full of ironed clothes waiting for me to wear them.

...to wear bright, ironed clothes or my most comfortable blue top on my favourite jeans.

...to look at my home that I have just cleaned prim and prop which looks very welcoming.

...to drive in my dear Estilo when it's raining hard outside listening to my favourite "Jab We Met" songs.

...it when someone drops me back from work or a nice outing or party, especially coming out of way to do it. (Schade! that it has never happened yet. It's mostly me who does the dropping off for people.)

...to feel the blast of the AC in my Estilo when driving to office.

...it when people say that I am a good driver. (Believe me, I am!)

...it when someone remembers me and buys something especially for me when they are on a trip or outing. (That too has happened only very, very seldom.)

...it when sometimes people leave me alone to myself.

...to watch a movie alone sometimes.

...to buy gifts for my dear ones. (Sometimes I feel I overdo it.)

...it when a friend of mine gives me a flower every time we meet.

...to see myself sweat it out after I go for a walk or exercise rigorously.

...to see not just the sweat on my face after my exercise but also my rosy cheeks bright with exercise.(So Elizabeth-Darcy-like!)

...to sit under that one tree in our local park after my usual rounds enjoying the cool breeze and looking at the evening sky and the birds around.

...it when friends ping me to chat, especially those who are so dear to me.

...it when there is absolutely no work, no relatives, no visits on weekends and I get to do whatever and how much ever I want.

...to take that blessed afternoon siesta after a sumptuous meal on a Saturday.

...to have dinner ready for my parents when they return from Mumbai.

...it when I switch on the TV and find my favourite movie on.

...to hear my favourite old songs on the radio.

...to watch movies in the night when everyone else is asleep in the house.

...to read an exciting, nerve-wrecking novel right into the night and finish it off with a relish.

...to write long letters describing all kinds of things to my friends.

...it when I receive a letter from my friends as a reply to my earlier letter.

...to buy beautiful, unique key chains, treasure them all up, and then open this treasure some days later to take a stock.

and of course,

...it when people leave comments on blog posts. ;)

Birds Of All Feathers

Some soaring high in the sky, some singing in the trees, some hidden in the foliage, some twittering around flying, some hopping trees, and some returning to nests as the night falls.

You will see them all if you spare some time in the evening and visit your local park. If you just take efforts and listen carefully, you will be able to decipher the cuckoos singing, crows croaking, sparrows chirping, parrots screeching, and various other birds twittering.

As you sit and watch them all, you wonder at the lives of these feathered friends. What difficulties they must be facing every day to get food, water, and shelter. You wonder how they survive the scorching heat. How do they protect themselves from predators? How do they manage to get up so early in the morning?

How do they know that you need "a blessing from above" especially when you are wearing your best clothes? Just as we talk of a "bird's eye view," do they also twitter about a "man's eye view?" Do their necks ever pain with their constanting twisting and looking around? Do they get tired of spreading their wings and flying? Do their beaks ever itch?

As you get all these questions in your mind, you suddenly realise that it has become dark and that the birds have settled down for the night. But instantly, you are proven wrong. Owls hoot loudly announcing that the night is all alive.

You bless those charming, delightful, avian friends and get back to your flightless routine.

Photos Galore

A visit to the Bannerghatta National Park in Bengaluru obviously asked for a ready camera and patience. My friend and I also visited the Butterfly Park inside the National Park.

Here's a link to the pics that I took: http://picasaweb.google.com/prajaktacpradhan/BannerghattaNationalParkAndButterflyPark?feat=directlink

I enjoyed taking the pics. Hope you like the pics!

Rains Rains Come Again!

First rains of the season!!! Wonderful!!! Awesome! Always an out-of-this-world experience!

I simply love rains!

Foul February

I hate February! Really! Since past few years, I have consistently had the worst days of the year in February. All bad things happen in February. Deaths, illnesses, losses, heartbreaks, unhappy relations, sly, selfish relationships, all, all happen in February.

I want this month to get over soon, really soon!

Till then I pray nothing worse happens any more! Hoping that the rest of the year is better!

Wishful thinking...!

"Sirius"ly Yours

This wonderful friend finally succumbed to the inevitable.

He had wandered into Wadia Stud Farm as a small pup where he was adopted unconditionally.

He lived life giving love to everyone. He was especially attached my mother who works there. He waited for her on guard when she worked overtime and accompanied her till the gate. He was truly noble.


All at Wadia Stud Farm will truly miss you, Sirius!

Celebrating "Chaitanya"

Here's a beautiful song that celebrates चैतन्य in nature:

Life is good!

Can We Get Smaller Than This?

Where do we figure in this?

If you want to know more about this picture, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Star-sizes.jpg.

Seriously, we're just teeny-weeny, tiny-miny, itsy-bitsy midgets in this universe. But we consider ourselves, our wants and wishes, our egos bigger than even Canis Majoris. Time we resized it all, I guess!

Be An Idiot!

Warning: If you haven't seen 3 Idiots, and want to watch it, know that this post contains spoilers. Read it at your own risk.

Don't miss the start. Especially the credits and the photography used for that song. It's simply beautiful. You start on the journey rightaway. I don't know if you have travelled to Konkan. But if you have, especially long hours, you will get the exact feeling of travelling on winding roads for long hours when you are watching the credits. That's because you turn as the camera turns, as the car turns. It's simple, and that's why brilliant camera work. The mood sets in. As the story unravels, you are on a journey to find Rancho.

The story goes on about how the three main protagonists meet, become friends, love each other for what they are, and hate each other too. We get to know how they learn new things, study, chill out with friends and make fun of them too. We see how people and situations affect them, how they react to it, and what the consequences are.

I would rather not tell the story here but tell how the film affected me and what I liked in it. The film is a wonderful combination of flashback and present. When you are dealing with the present, you are suddenly thrown back into the past. And when dwelling in the past, you are suddenly pulled back to the present. These jerks are awesome, a wonderful back and forth of circumstances.

Raju's family is shown as if existing from a 1950s-1960s movies, entirely in black and white. That's maintained throughout in the movie. The moment you step in their house, it's all black and white. It's beautiful. On the other hand, Farhan's camera plays an important role. It is almost through Farhan's camera that we see the past. It's his narration that takes the story ahead.

The only love song in the movie is, I have to admit, cute. Really cute. Very nicely done. I loved it. The whole time I was watching that song, I had a smile on my lips. Both Aamir and Kareena look awesome in it, especially when they are dancing against the big white moon.

I am not saying the movie is flawless. It has its melodramatic scenes, exaggerated scenes, and completely unbelievable scenes. But you are led into a suspension of your disbelief. I watched the movie twice and believe me, the pregnancy scene, which is so much exaggerated brought out a completely different reaction from the audience. The first time I watched it, the theatre was silent, completely silent. After the baby was born, there was a kind of sigh of relief. The second time I watched it, once the baby was out and kicking (not literally), there were whistles in the audience. It was amazing to be there at that moment to experience that.

After a long time, I actually heard people going crazy over a hero's or heroine's entry on screen. There were whistles and shouts on Aamir Khan's entries. Superb!

I loved the movie not for the message it spreads. I loved it for the sheer cinematic experience it provides.

I highly recommend this movie for everyone. Not to be missed for worlds!